Night photos without flash?

[fanaddicts]

I do a lot of photography of singers on a dimly lighted stage, I have just purchased a new Nikon D70 and have been experimenting but getting a lot of ghost imaging. I have been shooting with both a Kikkor 20-80mm Zoom as well as 70-300mm zoom.
I would like to know what settings someone would use to acquire the best photos in these conditions> I've tried them all and still get ghost.
Please help need to know if it's operator error or the cam. Have a gig to do tomorrow night.

[Ronnoco]

Your lenses may not be fast enough. In low stage lighting you may require at least a lens that can be set to 2.8 Even then you would have to go to a high ISO 800, 1600 or 3200 and all for the purpose of getting a higher shutter speed, perhaps as high as 1/250 sec. depending on the focal length that you are shooting at, and your experience with longer lenses and timing your shot.

Ronnoco

[yogestee]

Stage lighting whether it be theatre or rock bands isn't great for photography..The lighting is so changable from very bright to dark as a coal mine and changes in seconds..I use to shoot a lot of stage productions for the local theatre group mainly in black and white..I would push process Kodak Tri-X two stops to 1600ISO to get away with ambient light,,I never used flash..The result was fairly grainy due to push processing but the grain added to the effect..The cast and crew would snap up my 10 x 8's and I made a killing..I hand printed my own prints..

I would shoot during the last dress rehearsal and had free movement at the front of the stage..I would use a pair of Nikons (FE2) one with a Nikkor 85mm f2.0 and the other mounted with a Nikkor 50mm f1.4..These are really fast lenses and pin sharp wide open..My typical exposure was 1/125th@f2.8..The trick is to predict when the subject is going to be totally still before firing the shutter so you negate any subject movement..Dancing was always a chore..

To shoot theatre etc you need fast lenses, a lot of practice and patience..Bump your ISO to as fast as your camera will allow and if possible shoot wide open,focus carefully and predict what will happen next..And I recommend you get hold of a fast prime lens of around 80 or 100mm,,even a 50mm f2.0 or faster will do the job..

I hope this is a start for you..

Jurgen
Australia

[another view]

Fast lenses and high ISO's are really a necessity with shooting this way. I don't consider an f2.8 zoom a fast lens - look more at a 50 f1.4 or something along those lines.

As far as the ghosting goes, are you using a UV filter? Light can bounce off the front element of the lens and back against the filter causing this. It can happen inside the lens but it's a lot less likely. Take the UV filter off and the problem is solved. Also - a lens hood would be a really good thing to use because of the contrasty stage lighting.

[Ronnoco]

Fast lenses and high ISO's are really a necessity with shooting this way. I don't consider an f2.8 zoom a fast lens - look more at a 50 f1.4 or something along those lines.
.

It's all relative. A 50mm f.1.4 is only good if you can get really close to the stage. If you can't get that close, and unless you have spent the big bucks you are likely using a f.2.8 zoom or perhaps one even slower.

If you are shooting digital, I would really consider one of the better flashes out there, because they can really give you the "un-flash" look. Experiment with one of the tint filters in your camera menu in combination with flash to get the "natural/available light" look. It is worth it to improve the shutter speed and still give you the look you want.

Ronnoco

[CLKunst]

If you are shooting digital, I would really consider one of the better flashes out there, because they can really give you the "un-flash" look.

Unfortunately most clubs and concert venues will not ALLOW flash photography of any kind unless you have special permission from the band, venue, promoter or all three.

I regularly shoot in the dark with no flash and the best advice I can give has really already been given. Open up what you have (Camera and lens) as far as you can go, I regularly work in the range of F3.5 1/10 to 1/20 at an ISO 3200. Hold very still, get as close to the stage as you can, anticipate action, pray for a miracle and practice, practice, practice. One thing I do is wrap my camera strap around my wrists and shoulder to prevent shake. Another good tip is to wait for a down beat in the music since everyone seems to stop and take a breath for a sec at those moments. Hope you had a good gig! Post a pic or two from it if you can.

[Ronnoco]

[QUOTE=CLKunst]Unfortunately most clubs and concert venues will not ALLOW flash photography of any kind unless you have special permission from the band, venue, promoter or all three.
QUOTE]

You're right, CL, I was often shooting outside, or inside with "assumed" permission since I represented the property owner where the gig was taking place. I never ran into any trouble and specialized in sinking into the background so-to-speak. It also of course depends on the particular individual or group performing on stage.

Ronnoco

[Anbesol]

Fast lenses and high ISO's are really a necessity with shooting this way. I don't consider an f2.8 zoom a fast lens - look more at a 50 f1.4 or something along those lines.

As far as the ghosting goes, are you using a UV filter? Light can bounce off the front element of the lens and back against the filter causing this. It can happen inside the lens but it's a lot less likely. Take the UV filter off and the problem is solved. Also - a lens hood would be a really good thing to use because of the contrasty stage lighting.

1.4 is incredibly fast, i think he would do well with a 2.8. but yes, the faster the better...