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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Kingston, Ontario, Canada
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    Macro->Nikon, Canon, Pentax->Bodies, Lenses,

    Good-day,

    I previously posted in the Digital Cameras- General forum the following message (the original thread is in the forum under the title "Research Camera").

    For those of you not inclined to reading the entire quote below, I have summarised my main points following the quote.

    Previous Post:

    Research Camera

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Good-day,

    I am currently designing a research system in which I will be taking B&W profile pictures (i.e., side-on, still-image, digital) of stationary, molten magnesium droplets around 3-10 mm (~0.1-0.4 in) in diameter, with heights that should range around 1-5 mm (~0.04-0.2 in) (these are only preliminary numbers, and, as such, there could be some variations outside the ranges given).

    The droplets I will be imaging will be immersed in a molten salt electrolyte (the electrolyte is relatively transparent), in a transparent crucible, with the pictures taken through a window located in the side of a cylindrical furnace

    One of my requirements is to obtain a relatively sharp image of the drop profile, as I am currently looking at using image analysis software to determine the drop outline in the pictures taken.

    The lighting currently comes mostly from standard ceiling fluorescent lights currently present in the lab, with the only other source of light (at the moment) being the furnace elements which encircle the crucible (emitting a soft orange glow) (Note: the magnesium droplets do NOT glow like other molten metals, but, rather, are somewhat dull grey in appearance).

    The only other desire is that the camera be relatively inexpensive (i.e., I can sacrifice some image quality for lower cost, so long as the image is still somewhat clear).

    As I am rather new to digital cameras, I am looking for some input as to a suitable specific digital camera or more general specifications that I would be looking for. In addition, beneficial suggested modifications to the current set-up (i.e., an additional light source to further illuminate the system in study if that would help) would be appreciated if anybody can think of any.

    If any additional information is required, feel free to ask.

    Thank you all for your time and assistance.
    __________________
    "Don't take life too seriously; you'll never get out alive"
    - Bugs Bunny

    Main Points (and some new ones):

    i.) I will be taking pictures of stationary droplets around 3-10 mm (~0.1-0.4 in) in diameter, with heights that should range around 1-5 mm (~0.04-0.2 in), and require relatively sharp images so they can be analysed with image analysis software.

    ii.) My maximum desired expenditure for the entire camera system (i.e., lenses, camera, memory cards, etc.) is around CAD$3500-4000 (US$2600-3000).

    ii.) Photo-John was helpful in suggesting the following 5 cameras:

    Nikon D70
    Nikon D100
    Canon Digital Rebel
    Canon EOS 10D
    Pentax *ist D

    and in putting my on track looking at digital SLR cameras.

    iii.) Light is not really a deciding factor in selecting the camera or lenses, as I am in a lab setting and can control the amount of light (i.e., buying a cheap light, turning lights off, etc.).

    iv.) The camera will esentially be used entirely on a tripod or another stable setting (i.e., I will generally not be holding it in my hands, though that is possible, and, as such, I would like at least somewhat good performance in that type of situation).

    v.) Neither I nor anyone I work with is in the photography business or hobby, nor does anyone have any real experience with cameras beyond that of "average person photography" (i.e., point and shoot).

    In addition, it seems as though it might be easier to look at lenses first (I also need a lot of help in this area, such as types/examples of suitable macro lenses), then choose the camera based on the company of the chosen lense type, as lenses will at least remain useful, even if the camera body changes (as long as the mounts are similar/the same); I was wondering if this is a good approach?

    There might be some more for me to say, but I have to go watch a leaching operation for someone and I'm on a shared computer...Any questions (requests for further informations) and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Thank you for your time and assistance.

    Auf wiedersehen,

    James
    "Don't take life too seriously; you'll never get out alive"
    - Bugs Bunny

  2. #2
    nature/wildlife co-moderator paulnj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    hillsborough NJ, USA
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    all you need.... in my opinion is a D rebel with a MPE 65 1X-5X MACRO LENS... if you can get close to your subject SAFELY

    FROM THERE.... proper WHITE BALANCE and a tripod/card and your in business ;)

    HERE are the lens I'D choose from depending on your safe distance and whether you want AMAZING DETAIL OF HILLARIOUSLY SMALL AREAS(MPE 65)

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...#goto_itemInfo

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...#goto_itemInfo

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...#goto_itemInfo



    LOOK AT THE FOCUS RANGE on the MPE basicly 1 inch away

    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/re.../mp-e-65.shtml

    IF THESE IMAGES are the size on the image you'd like ...... then your in business
    CAMERA BIRD NERD #1




    BIRD NERD O'CANON

    "Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both" - Benjamin Franklin

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kingston, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by paulnj
    all you need.... in my opinion is a D rebel with a MPE 65 1X-5X MACRO LENS... if you can get close to your subject SAFELY

    FROM THERE.... proper WHITE BALANCE and a tripod/card and your in business ;)

    HERE are the lens I'D choose from depending on your safe distance and whether you want AMAZING DETAIL OF HILLARIOUSLY SMALL AREAS(MPE 65)

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...#goto_itemInfo

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...#goto_itemInfo

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...#goto_itemInfo



    LOOK AT THE FOCUS RANGE on the MPE basicly 1 inch away

    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/re.../mp-e-65.shtml

    IF THESE IMAGES are the size on the image you'd like ...... then your in business
    Good-day,

    Thank you for your reply.

    I should have mentioned that my subjects are inside of a furnace at 700C (1300F), and, as such, the closest I will be able to place the camera is ~20 cm (~8 in) away from the subject drops. I would prefer it if the camera could be placed somewhat further away than this (if possible), as this would minimise the need for a cooling system (i.e., fans).

    Auf wiedersehen,

    James
    "Don't take life too seriously; you'll never get out alive"
    - Bugs Bunny

  4. #4
    nature/wildlife co-moderator paulnj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    hillsborough NJ, USA
    Posts
    9,315
    well..... then a MACRO in the 180- 200mm range on a nikon/canon DSLR will be your best bet for MACRO LENSES

    canon 180f3.5 macro(d rebel) or nikon 200f4 micro(d70)..... but that temp with a camera that close is SCARY!!!!!!!!!!!

    try these lenses on a DSLR before!!!!!!! you EVER think of pulling out your wallet......SERIOUSLY!!!!!

    cameras shouldn't be subjected to those HIGH temps if you ask me, especially a DSLR ??

    but I am not a macro or DSLR guru either, so I could be misleading you
    CAMERA BIRD NERD #1




    BIRD NERD O'CANON

    "Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both" - Benjamin Franklin

  5. #5
    Not Just a Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Santa Clara, CA
    Posts
    37

    Hot Mirrors

    Quote Originally Posted by Zehn Ziegen
    Good-day,

    I previously posted in the Digital Cameras- General forum the following message (the original thread is in the forum under the title "Research Camera").

    For those of you not inclined to reading the entire quote below, I have summarised my main points following the quote.

    Previous Post:

    Research Camera

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Good-day,

    I am currently designing a research system in which I will be taking B&W profile pictures (i.e., side-on, still-image, digital) of stationary, molten magnesium droplets around 3-10 mm (~0.1-0.4 in) in diameter, with heights that should range around 1-5 mm (~0.04-0.2 in) (these are only preliminary numbers, and, as such, there could be some variations outside the ranges given).

    The droplets I will be imaging will be immersed in a molten salt electrolyte (the electrolyte is relatively transparent), in a transparent crucible, with the pictures taken through a window located in the side of a cylindrical furnace

    One of my requirements is to obtain a relatively sharp image of the drop profile, as I am currently looking at using image analysis software to determine the drop outline in the pictures taken.

    The lighting currently comes mostly from standard ceiling fluorescent lights currently present in the lab, with the only other source of light (at the moment) being the furnace elements which encircle the crucible (emitting a soft orange glow) (Note: the magnesium droplets do NOT glow like other molten metals, but, rather, are somewhat dull grey in appearance).

    The only other desire is that the camera be relatively inexpensive (i.e., I can sacrifice some image quality for lower cost, so long as the image is still somewhat clear).

    As I am rather new to digital cameras, I am looking for some input as to a suitable specific digital camera or more general specifications that I would be looking for. In addition, beneficial suggested modifications to the current set-up (i.e., an additional light source to further illuminate the system in study if that would help) would be appreciated if anybody can think of any.

    If any additional information is required, feel free to ask.

    Thank you all for your time and assistance.
    __________________
    "Don't take life too seriously; you'll never get out alive"
    - Bugs Bunny

    Main Points (and some new ones):

    i.) I will be taking pictures of stationary droplets around 3-10 mm (~0.1-0.4 in) in diameter, with heights that should range around 1-5 mm (~0.04-0.2 in), and require relatively sharp images so they can be analysed with image analysis software.

    ii.) My maximum desired expenditure for the entire camera system (i.e., lenses, camera, memory cards, etc.) is around CAD$3500-4000 (US$2600-3000).

    ii.) Photo-John was helpful in suggesting the following 5 cameras:

    Nikon D70
    Nikon D100
    Canon Digital Rebel
    Canon EOS 10D
    Pentax *ist D

    and in putting my on track looking at digital SLR cameras.

    iii.) Light is not really a deciding factor in selecting the camera or lenses, as I am in a lab setting and can control the amount of light (i.e., buying a cheap light, turning lights off, etc.).

    iv.) The camera will esentially be used entirely on a tripod or another stable setting (i.e., I will generally not be holding it in my hands, though that is possible, and, as such, I would like at least somewhat good performance in that type of situation).

    v.) Neither I nor anyone I work with is in the photography business or hobby, nor does anyone have any real experience with cameras beyond that of "average person photography" (i.e., point and shoot).

    In addition, it seems as though it might be easier to look at lenses first (I also need a lot of help in this area, such as types/examples of suitable macro lenses), then choose the camera based on the company of the chosen lense type, as lenses will at least remain useful, even if the camera body changes (as long as the mounts are similar/the same); I was wondering if this is a good approach?

    There might be some more for me to say, but I have to go watch a leaching operation for someone and I'm on a shared computer...Any questions (requests for further informations) and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Thank you for your time and assistance.

    Auf wiedersehen,

    James
    I suggest that you choose a camera appropriate for your use without first concerning yourself with whether or not it will stand up to the heat. You can protect the outside of the camera from heat by putting it in a insulated box (spun glass insulation such as used in an attic ought to work) and putting in front of the lens a "hot mirror" or heat absorbing glass, preferably the former. A hot mirror reflects infrared radiation (heat) while transmitting visible radiation (light). You can buy such a mirror from Edmunds Optics (www.edmundsoptics.com). There are several types of heat absorbing glass such as the Schott KG-x series glasses (x=1,2,3). These absorb heat and pass a controlled band of visible light. However they will themselves get hot, so in your case I think the hot mirror is the better choice. I will be glad to discuss this further with you if you desire.

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