nikon 70-300mm vr too slow??

[steves1981]

Hello,
I keep reading that the nikor 18-105mm vr and the nikor 70-300mm vr lenses are "too slow". Is this true? What are my other options? What are other options that I can use to stop image blur due to the subject moving? I want to be able to take action shots of my friends dirtbike races.
Steve

[Anbesol]

The variable aperture of the two mentioned lens make them less bright optically than comparable fixed aperture choices.

Brighter optics also, of course - allow for faster AF speed.

The 70-200 f/2.8 has brighter optics, allowing for a 1.6 stop advantage at 200mm. The brighter optics allow for faster, more reliable AF as well. The 'VR' feature will do zilch for the dirtbike races. Theres a variety of different 70-200 f/2.8's out there.

[Franglais]

In order to stop subject movement you need a fast shutter speed. You can't use anything slower than 1/250s if you're panning with a blurred background. If you want something completely frozen then try 1/1000.

If your lens doesn't allow you to get these shutter speeds because the maximum aperture is too small then you can increase the ISO. This will bring you more noise in the picture but with the latest generation of DSLR's this isn't a problem up to 1600ISO at least.

Lets take an example of a not very bright day:

1/125s f5.6 at 400 ISO (basic setting)
1/500s f5.6 at 1600 ISO (increase ISO with 18-105 or 70-300)
1/500s f2.8 at 400 ISO (with 70-200 f2.8)
= same picture

[Ray Dockrey]

I have the 70-300VR and I love it. It is well regarded as a great value in the Nikkor lineup. It's shortcomings really show in low light but for outdoors during the day even on cloudy days it is fantastic. The 70-200 2.8's are nice but the prices are much higher and then you have to deal with the added weight. I have the Nikkor 80-200 2.8 and it is a beast compared to the 70-300 VR. I shoot pictures of our high school marching band and I use the 70-300 VR during the day and when we move to night time I switch to the 80-200 2.8 on a monopod.

You also don't say what Nikon camera you are using and you don't list it in your profile. If you are using the D5000 or down you will need an AF-S or equivalent lens as these camera's don't have built in focus motors. This can really limit what you can use if you don't want to manual focus.

[steves1981]

I don't own a camera yet. I am just getting started and have never used an SLR yet. I am planning to buy the D90 in the next couple of days, but I don't know what is the best set-up to buy. Do I want the 18-105mm vr and 70-300mm combo? I just dont want to buy the combo kit and then once I have it, realize that the 70-300 is too slow to take pictures of action shots. I plan to use the camera for every day photography and action shots at dirtbike, atv and automobile races. What do you guys think?
Thanks
Steve

[steves1981]

Also, can anyone recommend a place to buy one for a good price? Is it worth buying an extended warranty?

[Frog]

Extended warranties are seldom worthwhile.

See this list in 'dealer feedback forum' for safe places to buy.
There are only one or two good ones on ebay if you are going that way. Recommended sites and sites to avoid

Be sure to buy from Nikon authorized dealer or there will be no NIKON warranty.
Kits can be tricky as you will be talked into things you end up not wanting or wishing you had something else.
Since you have not had a dslr before and will be starting from scratch, the sales people will try to convince you to buy more. I am not saying that the 70-300 won't suit your purpose but for freezing action, you have to consider the situations you'll be shooting in.
Full daylight, evening, shade,(and how heavy), or indoors. If you have adequate light, you can probably get the shutter speeds you need by adjusting aperture and/or iso.
But otherwise you're talking about $1,000 + lenses.
Learning the ropes doesn't happen instantly. You probably want to shoot things you've seen and wish you had a picture of it happening. To do that takes knowledge and practice.
From my end and without knowing what you already know, I would go for the body with the 18-105 and use if for a while. See if you can zoom in close enough to the action and get the shutter speeds you want. After you find out what you can and can't do with it, then it will be time to consider what other lens or apparatus you need.
It isn't a hobby for those that don't want to invest time and money to learn and have what you need. BUT you also don't need everything and can learn to get the best out of what you have.
Good luck and come back and let us know how you are doing and show us some pics.
Put them in critique and you'll get lots of pointers on how to make them better.

[Franglais]

I don't own a camera yet. I am just getting started and have never used an SLR yet. I am planning to buy the D90 in the next couple of days, but I don't know what is the best set-up to buy. Do I want the 18-105mm vr and 70-300mm combo? I just dont want to buy the combo kit and then once I have it, realize that the 70-300 is too slow to take pictures of action shots. I plan to use the camera for every day photography and action shots at dirtbike, atv and automobile races. What do you guys think?
Thanks
Steve

Start off by previsualising the images you are going to do. What image are you going to do, from where, at what distance, with what view (wide-angle, tele, long tele), in what lighting?

You probably have a collection of photos done by other people that you like. Do like we all do at first - figure out how the pictures were done and do the same thing.

For everyday photos the 18-105 is fine. I looked up "dirtbike photos" and "atv photos" on Google and they all seem to be done at a distance with a fairly long telephoto (between 70mm and 200mm?) in good light (daylight). As the D90 goes up to 3200 ISO with no problem then I think that the 70-300 f4.5-5.6 would do the job (in daylight - not at night or indoors)

[SmartWombat]

You can't use anything slower than 1/250s if you're panning with a blurred background.

I'd disagree there, it depends on what subject you're panning with, from how far away, with what focal length, and what effect you want.
I can go down to 1/25, with care, and get a very different image from 1/250.

[Franglais]

I'd disagree there, it depends on what subject you're panning with, from how far away, with what focal length, and what effect you want.
I can go down to 1/25, with care, and get a very different image from 1/250.

This is the guy who knows. My motorsport experience is limited.

That still means that the 70-300 is going to be suitable. I believe you have to turn the VR off if panning.

[SmartWombat]

I'm not the guy, just one of the guys in the sports forum
Steves1981 - come over to the sports forum when you've decided on a lens and join in with the other bike photographers.