• 10-10-2005, 03:40 PM
    JoshD
    Photo-John/Brian C...digi-cam for MTBing
    or anyone else...

    Looking for a new camera that I can take with me while mountain biking. Currently I have a 2.5 year old Olympus Stylus 400 that is pretty good, but not great. I know nowadays I can get so much more for my money too. Example, I paid $380 for this camera 2.5 years ago, and my friend just got the Stylus 600 for $299 last week.

    I am open to any brand I suppose, I just want one that is somewhat portable/durable, good for landscapes and the occasional "action" shots. This would be my everyday camera, so its not just for the outdoors either.

    Thanks

    oh, price range, Id prefer to keep it under $600.
  • 10-10-2005, 04:03 PM
    Photo-John
    Re: Photo-John/Brian C...digi-cam for MTBing
    Josh-
    How about you tell us what you don't like about the camera you have now? And maybe give us an idea of what you'd like to be able to do that you can't do now. The truth is, $600 will buy you a lot of digital camera now. Our friend, Raymond, just bought the Olympus C-7070 for under $400, I think. That's a fast, full-featured 7-megapixel compact. It's pretty incredible to me that you can get much camera for such a small amount of money.
  • 10-10-2005, 04:06 PM
    brianc
    Re: Photo-John/Brian C...digi-cam for MTBing
    there are a lot of options in your price range. I have a Canon S45. I've flogged that little guy to death for 4 years. It's relitivly small, good solid metal body and fully manual options. It fits snuggly in the pouch in a CamelBak Mule (for example).

    I took a fall in Sedona. landing square on my back, the camera was between me and the ground. I dented the front door over the lens but the camera came through like a champ.

    I did just manage to just kill it, but that's because I got caught in the rain. I forgot about the camera in my pack (with the rain fly still on) so it got very wet as the moisture migrated through my pack. I think it can bew repaired so all is not lost.

    I have a few friends that like their A series canon's as well.
  • 10-10-2005, 04:17 PM
    JoshD
    Re: Photo-John/Brian C...digi-cam for MTBing
    Wow, fast replies thanks guys...

    Ok things I dont like about my camera, unless the light is perfect the shots never come out that great. Action shots are never sharp unless it is pure sunlight surrounding, if that makes sense. There is always some blur to the shots, non-intentional. Low light, action or not, the shots are rarely good. Example, low-light riding at Skeggs (John knows I am sure) in the redwoods...with flash on, first thing in sight lights up, the rest is practically black in the background. Flash off, always blurry. (This is not night time shooting, just lower light).

    I do like that is is "weather proof" and durable, fits right in my C-Bak so I would need the same sort of thing.

    Basicallly I think I just want a step-up from what I have now. Something with more options (still P&S though), sharper pics etc etc.


    Thanks guys!
  • 10-10-2005, 04:21 PM
    JoshD
    Re: Photo-John/Brian C...digi-cam for MTBing
    Oh one more thing, I have seen both of your pics on MTBR and here, do you ever just take right from the camera and post them as is? Or do you tweak them usually before you post with some software? If there is a camera that takes pics like those, raw, for under 600 sign me up! ;)


    [/QUOTE]
  • 10-10-2005, 06:12 PM
    Photo-John
    Super Tweaked!
    You've probably never seen an untouched photo from me. I consider what the camera captures to be just the starting point. In fact, I shoot dark, knowing I'm going to optimize. So they usually look pretty bad right out of the camera. But they have more potential that way.

    Skeggs is a great example, because the light is terrible. You have two choices in the redwoods - use a flash or pump up the ISO and pan. But really, it sounds like you need to learn some technique. Usually that can make a bigger difference than a new camera - especially with flash. If you regularly have blurred riders, start panning. There's no way around it. There isn't a camera that will get a sharp rider, in the redwoods. You either need flash, or you need to pan. When there's not enough light, there's not enough light.

    As for flash, you talked about the flash being on and the flash being off. But there's more than one way for the flash to be on. There's Auto Flash and you can either manually force the flash on, or off. In low light you should get the best results from forcing the flash on. When you do that the camera will use a long exposure time for the ambient light - and - pop the flash. That way you won't get that black background and a bright subject. Unfortunately, I haven't been very happy with Olympus flashes. I can never get them to do what I want. Try forcing the flash on and see what that does, though.

    The S45 that Brian referred to is a good camera. The currect version is the S80. Actually, that one might not be out yet. But that's a proven camera. My current favorite compact is the Casio Exilim EX-Z750. It's a 7-megapixel compact with full manual controls that's small enough to fit in your pocket. I carried it everywhere when I went to Austria to do the Marzocchi story. I think I may have even used a couple photos from that camera for the print article in Mountain Biking magazine. In any case, I really like that camera and can recommend it without reservations. Here's a link to my Casio Exilim EX-Z750 review: http://forums.photographyreview.com/...ad.php?t=13511

    Technique! Ask more questions. Post some problem photos. Let us help you take better pictures. Heck - come ride Skeggs with us and show me how you shoot :)
  • 10-11-2005, 12:32 PM
    JoshD
    Re: Super Tweaked!
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Photo-John
    You've probably never seen an untouched photo from me. I consider what the camera captures to be just the starting point. In fact, I shoot dark, knowing I'm going to optimize. So they usually look pretty bad right out of the camera. But they have more potential that way.

    Skeggs is a great example, because the light is terrible. You have two choices in the redwoods - use a flash or pump up the ISO and pan. But really, it sounds like you need to learn some technique. Usually that can make a bigger difference than a new camera - especially with flash. If you regularly have blurred riders, start panning. There's no way around it. There isn't a camera that will get a sharp rider, in the redwoods. You either need flash, or you need to pan. When there's not enough light, there's not enough light.

    As for flash, you talked about the flash being on and the flash being off. But there's more than one way for the flash to be on. There's Auto Flash and you can either manually force the flash on, or off. In low light you should get the best results from forcing the flash on. When you do that the camera will use a long exposure time for the ambient light - and - pop the flash. That way you won't get that black background and a bright subject. Unfortunately, I haven't been very happy with Olympus flashes. I can never get them to do what I want. Try forcing the flash on and see what that does, though.

    The S45 that Brian referred to is a good camera. The currect version is the S80. Actually, that one might not be out yet. But that's a proven camera. My current favorite compact is the Casio Exilim EX-Z750. It's a 7-megapixel compact with full manual controls that's small enough to fit in your pocket. I carried it everywhere when I went to Austria to do the Marzocchi story. I think I may have even used a couple photos from that camera for the print article in Mountain Biking magazine. In any case, I really like that camera and can recommend it without reservations. Here's a link to my Casio Exilim EX-Z750 review: http://forums.photographyreview.com/...ad.php?t=13511

    Technique! Ask more questions. Post some problem photos. Let us help you take better pictures. Heck - come ride Skeggs with us and show me how you shoot :)


    Great information, thanks John. I never thought to "pan" my action shots, I always just focused on one spot, and when the rider comes by I snap the shot. I will definately try that!

    Also, by forcing the flash do you mean have it on the setting that looks like an eye? If that makes sense. I have flash on setting, flash off setting, and one that looks like an "eye". I messed around with that last night, and what happened was a little flash occured, then a bigger one immediately after. What is that? Is that what you were talking about?

    You know what too? I always assumed I needed something like Photoshop to make my images better, so I have always left them untouched when I print or post them. Last night all I did was mess around with the brightness/contrast on iPhoto and it really does make a differerence! I guess thats "DUH" on my part :) I will start utilizing that more.


    Thanks again John, Ill look for you guys at Skeggs on Tuesdays. Actually maybe not, I cant afford a ticket right now ;)
  • 10-11-2005, 01:08 PM
    Photo-John
    Flash Settings
    Don't use the "eye" setting! That's redeye-reduction. That will add a significant lag to your shutter release time. Usually the "forced-on" setting is just a plain lightning bolt. Auto flash might be an A and a lightning bolt.

    As for the tickets - yeah, well, I can't afford one, either. I don't intend for that to happen again.
  • 10-11-2005, 05:25 PM
    JoshD
    Re: Flash Settings
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Photo-John
    Don't use the "eye" setting! That's redeye-reduction. That will add a significant lag to your shutter release time. Usually the "forced-on" setting is just a plain lightning bolt. Auto flash might be an A and a lightning bolt.

    As for the tickets - yeah, well, I can't afford one, either. I don't intend for that to happen again.

    I was just giving you sh*t about the ticket ;) Red-eye, shoulda known that. I need to learn my camera better I think before I get a new one I think :)