Filter for blown out skies?

[JETA]

I'm wondering what type of filter is best to help with landscape shots with blown out skies? Also are there any filter set ups that can be used on a fisheye lens for helping blown out skies? I'm hoping to be able to do this without photoshop.

Here's an example of my blown out sky with the fisheye.

[EOSThree]

I don't know if it will fit on a fishy or not but the best filter for this type of situation would be a split graduated neutral density filter. To use one properly you need a rectangular filter and a Cokin type holder. I have three in my kit, a .3(one stop), a .6(two stops) and a .9(three stops). The darker side of the filter is placed over the brightest area in the photo and the line placed on the horizon. You have to get creative with these filters if the horizon isn't a straight line.

Another filter that would help here would be a polarizer. It would help deepen the color of the sky.

[Jimmy B]

Jeta I have a cokin ND8 P121 and when I have used it I liked the results.
Jimmy

[Photo-John]

I'm hoping to be able to do this without photoshop.

I think Photoshop is the best way to handle this problem. Generally, I expose for the sky and then adjust the foreground using Photoshop masked adjustment layers. This will deliver better and more consistent results than filters. The filter options are a split neutral density filter or a polarizer. A split neutral density filter would darken half of your image. And the effectiveness of a polarizer depends on the angle of the sun and the brightness of the sky. I'm not sure if it would have helped with this image. But with the right exposure, Photoshop would handle the problem perfectly.

Why don't you want to use Photoshop?

[Liz]

I also prefer the filter simply because I don't like to do much post processing. I've always been happy with the circular polarizer - I use Hoya SMC (super multi coated) circular polarizer with good results. Sorry I can't help with the fisheye. I just LOVE those wide angles. I would love to rationalize getting the Canon 10-22 (altho not fisheye - a great wide angle). However, it's a bit heavy for me - and I know I wouldn't use it enough to warrant the cost.

Good luck - let us know what you decide - and post some pics. :thumbsup:

Liz

[JETA]

Thank you for all of the suggestions.

The reason I don't want to PS is my knowledge is lacking to say the least. I do very little processing of my pics. In my area I cannot find a ps class..... Would I be able to make these adjustments in Elements 2.0?

I was in need of a polarizer for pool pics this summer. Thanks for that suggestion Liz.

Any recommendations on the grad filters? I keep hearing about Cokin and Singh?

For this pic what do you think would have worked best? Polarizer, grad filter or ps?

[Loupey]

I have Cokin split ND filters but last used them 16 1/2 years ago (during my honeymoon in Hawaii) - to show how often I use them

You have to be very selective when using them as you generally need a very straight transition line - like a straight ocean horizon. Even a stray tree here and there can get over darkened if they cross the "graduation boundary".

In your first shot, I don't think a polarizer would have helped based on your shooting angle relative to the sun (judging by the angle of the shadows in the foreground). In the second shot, I think there is a lot of atmospheric haze. Otherwise, it would be a fairly good candidate for a split ND application.

The best solution (but not always possible) is to wait for better light/weather. Different time of the day, approaching storms, etc. Filters, while a useful tool, can't substitute for good timing.

[JETA]

Thank you for your very thoughtful and insightful response Loupey!

[mn shutterbug]

Jeta, I have no idea what kind of sky you're looking for, but this is just an example from PS Elements. As you can see, I hurried thru it, thus the innaccuracy, but it does give you a quick idea of what can be done. I'm certainly no pro when it comes to photo processing, but have played around a few times. This took me about 2 minutes.

[livin4lax09]

that looks wayyyy too fake.

I've been using my sisters 1d with her circular polarizer and it works very well to drop the brightness of the sky, but like PJ said, it's very dependent on angle. A lot of the time it helps though. I would recommend picking one up just for the heck out it, as sometimes it will greatly benefit you!

[mn shutterbug]

that looks wayyyy too fake.

Of course it looks fake. Like I said, I did this in 2 minutes. This was just to illustrate the potential of software. If a person wanted to apply a couple hours or more of their time, I believe they could do something with the software to really enhance the photo. Todays software have a lot of powerful features, when used by the right artist. No, I'm not that artist.

[JETA]

Thank you MNshutterbug for the demo. There is so much to learn!

I've been reading about all of this until my head hurts. From what I understand it's best to be at a 90degree angle from the sun with a polarizer? Sound right?

I've decided to go with a polarizer first since I'll need it for other things this summer. With all the reading I did I think this one will best fit my bill.... Heliopan
77 mm Circular Polarizer Multi-Coated (SH-PMC) Slim Glass Filter

Thanks again for all of the help and thoughtful answers.

[Loupey]

I've been reading about all of this until my head hurts. From what I understand it's best to be at a 90degree angle from the sun with a polarizer? Sound right?

That's right. As far as deepening the sky is concerned, make a pistol shape with your index finger and thumb. Now keep the thumb pointed towards the sun and rotate your wrist - the region that your index finger sweeps is the plane that will have the greatest effect with the polarizer.

I think many people have the misconception that a polarizer will work all the time (no) under all conditions (no) and with all types of reflections/glare (no again).