I'm looking for recommendations on a slow speed (under ISO100) B&W film with a wide exposure latitude. Wanted to pick up some Agfa APX25 but, since it's no longer in production, prices on the secondary market have skyrocketed. Anyone have any experience with Efke R25/R50 or Ilford Pan F Plus? The Efke seems to fit the bill but, is supposedly a little temperamental to in development. This also seems to be the case with the Pan F Plus but, this doesn't seem to have a very good exposure latitude to begin with. ANy thoughts on either of these films or any other recommendations?

I am pretty set in what I shoot, ( TRI-X BABY) so I can't really offer any suggestions.
However, the first place I would look for the film you are describing, would be Freestyle Photographic Solutions. (http://www.freestylephoto.biz/e_main.php)

Brian
Tri-X Rules!!
:D :thumbsup:

Thanks Brian :D Freestyle was one of the places I found out about Efke R25 & R50. I'm looking for a 120 film that will be very fine grain, with wide exposure latititude, and slow speed for long exposures. Plus-X and FP4 are nice but, I just want to try something slower. While I like Tri-X a lot, it doesn't quite fit the bill. For 400 speed though, personally I have been loving Neopan 400 lately. Though a lot of that I guess comes down to how you like your grain :wink:

I use Tmax 100 because it works. It has low grain and a lot of exposure latitude. It leans toward flat for me but I can toughen it up with red filters and a cpl if need be. Or... gasp! after scanning it in PS ;)

Thanks Rick :D I've played around a bit with TMax 100 in 35mm but, it just didn't quite seem to have the latitude as Plus-X. Maybe I'll just have to pick up some TMax 100 and Plus-X in 120 to play around with a bit more.

Thanks again for the suggestions guys :thumbsup:

Just a thought, but have you thought of using an ND filter to give you the longer shutterspeeds your looking for? If you already have a film that fits your needs, other than the long exposures, you could use an ND filter to slow things down.

I was listening to a podcast yesterday where a guy was talking about using long exposured in the daytime. He was using a Hoya 400ND filter (designed for shooting into the sun I think) to cut almost 9 stops of light! Sounded pretty intresting and the photos looked pretty cool too.

Thanks Michael :) I'm on the look out for some Bayonet 1 ND's but, it's not only long exposures I want, I also want minimum grain. Plus, I just want to experiment and try some different types of film.

I've read that Pan F is temperamental, but I haven't shot any...yet. Don't know about any of those other 25 or 50 ISO films. I have shot Tmax 100 quite a bit and I just developed my first roll of Acros 100 last night. I think I'm in love with Acros. It's a little grainier than Tmax, but the tonality (IMO) is much nicer. Tmax is very picky about development, but supposedly has the finest grain of any B&W film. I've heard Acros is picky too, but I can't say from my one roll experience. As far as exposure latitude goes, for B&W film, you are in control of that.

Paul

Thanks Paul :) Maybe I'll give the Acros a try then. Can't beat it at the price it goes for. And you're right, I could always play around with it in developing to get it how I want. Just curious, what are you developing the Acros in?

Thanks Paul :) Maybe I'll give the Acros a try then. Can't beat it at the price it goes for. And you're right, I could always play around with it in developing to get it how I want. Just curious, what are you developing the Acros in?

I use D76 for everything. My plan is to try a bunch of different films in D76, pick my favorite combos, then start trying other developers. Can't change too many things at once.

More specifically, here's what I did: Exposed at 100 ISO. D76 1:1 at 68 degrees in a single SST 35mm tank. Fuji says 10.5 minutes, but I did 10 minutes exactly. I started with constant agitation for 30 seconds, then I alternated between 3 and 4 inversions in 5 seconds, every 30 seconds. So I'd do 3 inversions, then next time I'd do 4 inversions. Weird, I know, but I like the results.

I highly recommend trying it. I'll try to post some examples tonight, but I might put them in Viewfinder to keep the digifolks happy. :D

Paul

Thanks for the breakdown. I agree that it would be bad to change to many things at once. I've been trying several different films but, sticking with HC-110 now for developing. Though I do alternate between dil. B and dil. H depending on what I'm shooting, just to control developing time.

...I'll try to post some examples tonight, but I might put them in Viewfinder to keep the digifolks happy. :D

Thank you :thumbsup:

I'm looking for recommendations on a slow speed (under ISO100) B&W film with a wide exposure latitude. Wanted to pick up some Agfa APX25 but, since it's no longer in production, prices on the secondary market have skyrocketed. Anyone have any experience with Efke R25/R50 or Ilford Pan F Plus? The Efke seems to fit the bill but, is supposedly a little temperamental to in development. This also seems to be the case with the Pan F Plus but, this doesn't seem to have a very good exposure latitude to begin with. ANy thoughts on either of these films or any other recommendations?

I have a strong preference for the Ilford based films. That said...I am a fan of the Pan F Plus, for most subjects its wonderful. It IS a lil fiddly on development. I have had best results with ID-11 in 1:2 and 1:3 dillutions. The Pan F also seems to be a thinner stock than say the Delta. This makes it a little more prone to cannister loading issues...it seems to want to coil very tightly and it seems a lil more flimsy...just take your time and you will be fine with it. The Pan F is so fine grained I tend to reserve it for landscape/architecture etc. Your right in that it does have less exposure latitude to begin with. But truly, this is one of the finest black and white films available today IMHO. I have recently ordered some DiXactol from photographers formulary : http://www.photoformulary.com/DesktopModules/StoreProductDetails.aspx?productID=948&tabid=9&tabindex=2&categoryid=31&selection=0&langId=0

While I haven't used the DiXactol personally I have seen hi-res raw scans with this combo (PanF Plus and DiXactol) and the results are staggering. So good in fact that it pretty much put my Zone VI 4x5 back in the closet.

I prefer Ilford Delta 100 for people shots. My absolute favorite is Delta 100 with ID-11 at 1:3 dillution. The Delta is my standard go-to film and what 90% of my stuff is shot with these days.

Sweet! I was hoping you would see my PBase post and swing on in Jason :D

I was primarily interested in it for landscape shots. Something that would give maximum detail in the tree lines or along the rocks on the coast. From my reading, it seems like a lot of these really slower films do not like a stop bath or at least not at it's normal strength. Whats you're experience in this? I'll take a look at photoformulary when I get a chance. I'm going to need to order some more chemicals in a little while anyway. Might give that stuff a shot if you think it's that good.

Thanks again for chiming in and I'm glad you found your way over here. You've taught me quite a bit so far and I hope I'm able to learn more you. I wonder if Colin will find his way over. I'll have to send him a message :)

Aaron

Sweet! I was hoping you would see my PBase post and swing on in Jason :D

I was primarily interested in it for landscape shots. Something that would give maximum detail in the tree lines or along the rocks on the coast. From my reading, it seems like a lot of these really slower films do not like a stop bath or at least not at it's normal strength. Whats you're experience in this? I'll take a look at photoformulary when I get a chance. I'm going to need to order some more chemicals in a little while anyway. Might give that stuff a shot if you think it's that good.

Thanks again for chiming in and I'm glad you found your way over here. You've taught me quite a bit so far and I hope I'm able to learn more you. I wonder if Colin will find his way over. I'll have to send him a message :)

Aaron


Hey man...you build it...they will come! =)

I will send Colin AND Stefano PM's over there. Stefano, if he comes, well his english is a lil choppy (he's Italian) but the man has forgoten more about film then I will ever know. Course Colin is the same way. Those two would certianly be right at home here. =)

Now for the stop bath question. I am using the stock Ilford Rapid Stop bath atstock dillution for 2m @ 68* and I havent noticed any issues.

My dad is still all off into shooting film. Seems I kinda of reinfected him with the photo bug after a couple decade hiatus. He is the one that is using the DiXactol/Pan F Plus combo. I have seen samples from both his RB67 and his Rollei (SL66-Zeiss Glass) and they are both soo good they are scary. Course the old man has that 'thing' too...he is just so freakin good he could take pictures of a ziploc bag and makes something frame worthy. =)

Send them all over. I know I have a few film lovers over there that keep checking up on me, so I was hoping if I posted about it you guys would trickle on in. You guys have taught me a lot already and I'm very much looking forward to picking your brains :thumbsup:

Now for the stop bath question. I am using the stock Ilford Rapid Stop bath atstock dillution for 2m @ 68* and I havent noticed any issues.

I don't want to hijack the thread, but why do you use stop bath at all? I've never used it and never seen a need. Am I overlooking something? I'm just talking about film...not prints.

Oh, and welcome to the site, Jason!

Thanks,
Paul

[QUOTE=Jason Hopkins]Now for the stop bath question. I am using the stock Ilford Rapid Stop bath atstock dillution for 2m @ 68* and I havent noticed any issues.[QUOTE]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but why do you use stop bath at all? I've never used it and never seen a need. Am I overlooking something? I'm just talking about film...not prints.

Oh, and welcome to the site, Jason!

Thanks,
Paul

Thanks Paul.

Why use Stop Bath? Cause thats the way pops taught me when I first started developing film when I was...see...about 8 (36 now...for the record). I guess I still use it and will likely continue because it works. =) Its a process I know works. I understand the variables and I know I will get results. I honestly never even thought to NOT use stop bath in film development just as I wouldnt NOT use it in print development. The use of stop bath is the only way I know of to purposely and effectively stop all development. /shrug

I don't want to hijack the thread, but why do you use stop bath at all? I've never used it and never seen a need. Am I overlooking something? I'm just talking about film...not prints.

Oh, and welcome to the site, Jason!

Thanks,
Paul

For me it was just the first method I read about while learning. I read up a little afterwards about not using a stop bath but, it seemed just to add another variable where using it seemed to be more of a definite :o

Thanks Paul.

Why use Stop Bath? Cause thats the way pops taught me when I first started developing film when I was...see...about 8 (36 now...for the record). I guess I still use it and will likely continue because it works. =) Its a process I know works. I understand the variables and I know I will get results. I honestly never even thought to NOT use stop bath in film development just as I wouldnt NOT use it in print development. The use of stop bath is the only way I know of to purposely and effectively stop all development. /shrug

Thanks for the explanations, John and Aaron. Consistency is key, so if it works, keep doing it, right? My first teacher taught us that it wasn't necessary and I haven't seen any ill effects from not using it, so I don't. I do a couple of 30 sec water washes and then add the fixer. I just thought I'd check to see if I'm overlooking some kind of defect that could be avoided.

Paul