I am having trouble holding my highlights in my landscape photos. Its a compromise and seems to me that its either expose for the sky or the ground. As of now there are no filters i am using besides clear ones for protection. Are there anyother filters out there that can help me with this?
Thanks

You could try a split (aka: graduated) neutral density filter. You'll want a square one that fits in a holder, such as the Cokin series. It's clear on one side and in the middle, gradually gets darker. You can slide it up and down in the holder to get the darker area where you want it, but it will still only be usable in certain situations. Check one out in the store or online if you're not familiar, and you'll see what I'm talking about. They come in different degrees of darkness.. ie. ND4 will give you two stops darker on one side, ND6 will give you 3 stops...

Paul

Graduated neutral density filters are perfect for this kind of situation. They'll bring down the brightness of the sky which lowers the overall dynamic range of the scene so that you can get a proper exposure.

. You could always take 2 exposures(sky and forground) and merge them via PS, but I have no experience with that technique.

A polarizing filter is also good in some situations,...90 degrees from the sun, or dealing with reflected light off water, wet leaves etc., or simply reducing contrast and lowering an f stop or two.

Ronnoco

I am having trouble holding my highlights in my landscape photos. Its a compromise and seems to me that its either expose for the sky or the ground. As of now there are no filters i am using besides clear ones for protection. Are there anyother filters out there that can help me with this?
ThanksHere's another way to get the results you want. I use a tripod and set my camera to auto bracket to minimize the difference between the frames. The layer mask method works well.
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml

Be sure to look around the rest of the luminous landscape while you are there.

Please don't copy the same question to multiple forums.

If you're using a digital SLR, expose for the highlights and adjust the shadows with Photoshop. That's what I always do. Photoshop gives me a lot more control than a split neutral density filter and I don't have to switch filters. If you're working on a tripod you can shoot two photos - one for the highlights and one for the shadows - and combine them in Photoshop for a wider dynamic range. If you shoot RAW you can do something similar by doing two conversions - one for the highlights and one for the shadows - and combining them in Photoshop.

Will a nuetral density filter work well too for the suggested things that Ronnoco said?
Can you guys tell me which filters you are using and your levels like 1,2, or 3 stops?
What level do you guys suggest?
I was thinking this one with a 2 stop graduation.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=57840&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

I don't think a polarixing filter wouldn't really help much in this situation. The effect the polarizer is going to have will be throughout the entire frame. The graduated ND filter will only affect the part of the frame that you want it to. In this case, it would darken the highlights to keep them from blowing out.

The ND filter will not have the same affect as the polarizer either. A ploarizer will help cut glair like Ronnoco said, the ND filter will not.

I have a Cokin graduated ND filter and it has come in handy at times. I have also found it to be a pain to deal with at other times. Like Photo-John said, it's just easier to deal with situations like this in post processing. About the only filter that can't be duplicated in Photoshop is a polarizer.

All the methods mentioned work well. Photo-John's approach of a tripod and two shots one for highlights and one for the darker part and then combining the two in Photoshop is a common and good approach. Neutral density filter requires a little more care in placement and sometimes a little experimentation, but nevertheless it works too and is prefered by some photographers. A polarizing filter is great for reducting reflected light on water, wet vegetation, etc., creating a darker blue ski, delineating cloulds, and like putting on polarized sun glasses can reduce flare and slightly improve colour as well. Photographers tend to use whichever approach they are most comfortable with.

Ronnoco

photojohn im sorry for posting in more than one forum. Also sorry for asking so much questions.

If I use the standard Cokin P holder for my DSLR what size filter will i need from B&H?

I don't think a polarixing filter wouldn't really help much in this situation. The effect the polarizer is going to have will be throughout the entire frame. The graduated ND filter will only affect the part of the frame that you want it to. In this case, it would darken the highlights to keep them from blowing out.it actually does help a bit, depending on what type of landscape, wether its also fairly high key or if its low key. but combining that and just stepping down to like -1 or -2 exposure compensation. its not incredibly effective but it works better then nothing.

Cokin P filters ;)

Thanks guys for everything after all of my questions. I just ordered a cokin p filter holder with 67 mm adapter and a hi-tec filter for the p system. I heard from many people on other forums and other sites that the cokin filters bring in a weird color cast. I ended up getting a 2 stop soft graduated nd filter just for now. I might also get a polarizer too.

Thanks guys
-Joe:)