Hello to those on this board.

I just upgraded from my Canon Rebel XT to the 1D Mark II N and what a nice camera. I use the Canon f2.8 70-200 mm IS USM. I shoot my childrens sports, most of which are outside, soccer and baseball, swimming.... I shoot on a monopod...so enough about me here is the reason I am writing..

When I shoot, I always shoot in autofocus function on the lens and camera. Many of my shots (the main target of the photo) is just slightly out of focus. I don't believe that it is camrea shake. I have the camera in center weighted average for the focusing. (When I read the manual, admittedly I don't understand it all) it talks about programming the camera in different ways. Especially when it talks about the different focusing settings.

Is there anything that you can tell me I might be doing wrong?
I would also take into great consideration whatever tips you can give me to set this camera up to allow me to learn properly the use of this fine piece of equipment.

Thanks in advance for helping

Centre weighted average is for the meter, not the focus, so it's not that.

The !DmkIIN has two focus modes, AI Servo and One Shot.
If your subject is moving, then use AI Servo.
One shot does what it says, you get one shot at the focus and it locks that distance, if your children keep on moving as you press the shutter button then they will ebd up slightly out of focus.

SmartWombat,

Thanks for the insight.....I will check the settings and take some photos and see what happens.

Thanks again....

Hello donmash and Welcome to the forum.

I have the MKII N as well as the older original 1D and for all sports I use Spot Metering and also use the CFn 4 setting to move focusing off of the shutter button to the * button. Doing this allows you to follow one subject and only focus when you have to. It takes some practice but this is the best way to do it, and why 99% of the pro shooters do it. This way too you don't have to keep focusing, only push it when you need too.

Also, make sure the lens is set correctly - IS should be in Mode 1 and the top switch shold be back towards the camera. If it is forward (used for closer fast focus) it will focus slower shooting sports and could be why you get slightly off focus shots.

And as SW said make sure you are in AI Servo mode

Oh, try shooting without the monopod. I personally feel monopods are dangerous when used at sporting events, especially high school and below. I have one but even after my shoulder surgery I still won't use it .


JS

JS,

First off thanks.

I checked the lens and sure enough the top button on the lens was at1.4 so I did move it to the 2.5.

I will read how to set up the CFn4 setting and I will do it. But if you will permit me, what will this do?

Thanks for the help, this board is exactly what I was looking for. :)

I added more to my other post BTW....lol, a little late I guess. :o

CFn-4 will allow you move the focus button OFF the shutter to the * button so the lens isn't constantly searching. You only have to focus as the action moves enough to change your focus.It will also save battery power, although that isn't much of a big deal on the MKII N it is if you shoot as much as I do, sometimes 10-12 hours in a day.

1.4... you have either the older version 70-200 . The newer f2.8 version is .7 to infinity or 2.5 to infinity. The older version focuses slightly slower, but still a very good, sharp lens. It won't have the IS mode switch so forget what I said about that.

JS

JS,

First off thanks.

I checked the lens and sure enough the top button on the lens was at1.4 so I did move it to the 2.5.

I will read how to set up the CFn4 setting and I will do it. But if you will permit me, what will this do?

Thanks for the help, this board is exactly what I was looking for. :)

It will focus faster now in the 2.5 position. 1.4 is ok if your focusing on things close up, but thats rare in sports.

JS

JS,

The lens does have the 1.4 to infinity and the 2.5 to infinity.

It also has the on and off button for the stabilizer. I have had it for 2 years.

I am looking up in the manual how to set the camera to your recommendations.

Thanks again,

Don

JS,

Which of the 4 CFn4's do you recommend in the program.

0- AF/AE lock
1- AE lock /AF
2- AF/AF lock, no AE lock
3- AE/AF, no AE lock

Just trying to learn,

Thanks again,

Don

I knew you'd ask but I couldn't remember...I had to look. It's #3 AE/AF no AE Lock

JS

well that makes me feel good, its the one that I figured was the most appropriate.

Isn't it good to know that your student is following your directions.

Thanks again

LOL, yeah, and some of them have made up "Cheat Sheets" Like JETA (who keeps vanishing then reappearing). Hey, I'm here to help, and once in a while I actually do! :eek: :confused:

JS

I use 4-1 not 4-3 for wildlife as I can set the exposure on the half-press and then move to the backlit bird-on-a-stick without messing wiht the rear dial for exposure compensation.
I almost always forget to take the backlight compensation off :(
So that is self-defence for not messing up the exposure for often !